Where They Live – Esmerido

Esmerido Lives  next to my friend Pablo …https://wp.me/p4fUlX-1mC …  and survives on a monthly pension of about 12 dollars.

It’s a cozy looking little apartment that he keeps clean and organized.

The problem is that, like so many other buildings in old Havana, this one is falling down around him. Two years ago a fire that started on the ground floor in the rear of the building caused extensive damage. A portion of the roof was lost and floors and walls collapsed in that area. Now rain water accumulates causing an abundance of mold and mildew to grow unchecked. The air is so thick with the odor of decay that it almost seems possible to cut it with a knife.

 

 

A Pig For Me

 

“You’re coming to visit? Good, we’re going to get you a pig.”

My first thought – I don’t need any pets.

No, my Cuban family is going to slaughter it and roast it for me.

It’s a huge party. Everyone enjoys it. What’s not to like – friends and neighbors, food, drink, cigars, treats, and of course music. Constant music.

The Roast is started early. It’s hot and smokey and must be constantly turned.

 

The women peeled and boiled some yucca, a root vegetable high in starch, but little flavor.

 

Puti  made her delicious congri over a charcoal fire. It’s always delicious.

Saute the garlic and onion.

Add rice …..

…and the cooked beans…..

…mix well…

…and simmer.

 

Aymara made a fresh salad with cabbage, tomatoes, and cucumbers with vinegar and oil dressing.

I brought something to drink.

 

Of course everyone poses with dinner.

Then, expert hands made quick work of removing the meat.

Everyone had plenty to eat.

 

While the women cleaned up ….

…the men sat on the porch with coffee, cigars and rum.

The remnants.

My Cuban family has done this for me several times. It’s a treat for me and for them.

Nothing says love like sharing a freshly roasted pig.

 

 

 

Where They Live – Pablo

He looks like a gangster and I have told him so, but he’s really a nice guy. I’ve known Pablo for over two years.

He stands on a bad leg all night as a guide/security guard/coordinator for all things and nothing in particular. He sort of made a position for himself in front of the American Theater and Casa de la Musica in Havana. He barely survives on the tips from tourists for tours of the theater, for hailing them a taxi or a bici, or for information.

I finally took him up on his desire to show the world where he has to live.

Because of his bad leg Pablo needs help with the two flights of stairs to be able to get to his work. He asked the government years ago for a ground floor apartment, but he’s repeatedly told that he has to wait.

I climbed the stairs to an open area in the middle of the building.

Pablo came out to greet me.

Living room

Bedroom

A television that no longer works.

Kitchen area with gas stove.

Bathroom and shower.

There is a loft with another mattress, but the floor was so weak that I did not go up.

 

 

 

 

Meet Roberto

It started with a cigar. Actually two cigars. I was smoking and so was he.  I yelled “tobacco” and gave him a  thumbs up. He smiled and waved us over.

“I like tobacco” he said.

We were walking where tourists never go and I think Roberto was happy to have some strangers to talk with. After telling us that he was 84 years old, he proceeded to do some deep knee bends to show us that he was in good shape.

Roberto struck this pose on one of his squats. Then we all laughed.

 

He wanted to show us this newspaper article from the late 1950’s. He was in Miami working at a hotel when a reporter came to interview some of the staff. He got his name in print and saved the article for all these years.

Of course there were photographs too.

Roberto was also proud to show us this certificate he received for completing a hunting safety course.

That’s how it goes in Havana. You never know what interesting people you’re going to meet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Way We Used To Play

Years ago, If you lived in the city, you played in the street.

In Havana, that’s exactly what children still do.

Get some wheels and find a hill.

Jump onto a pile of sand and roll down the side.

 

Play a card game and use old cigarette packs as currency.

 

Find something to climb on, run around, and hide behind.

Hopscotch

Basketball

 

And of course, there’s always futbol.

 

Playing Marbles:  https://wp.me/p4fUlX-11B

Surgidero de Batabano – The Village

Head directly south from Havana and in about 60 minutes you will come to Surgidero de Batabano. A very small fishing village on the south coast of Cuba.

Old buildings and modest houses.

Dirt streets and canals divide the town.

The water is mostly stagnant and polluted.

 

The main streets.

Fresh pork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can’t Live Without Water – Update

In case you missed part one:

Can’t Live Without Water:    https://wp.me/p4fUlX-18y

 

I am happy to report that our friends who live in the country now have plenty of water. Water in both houses, water in the kitchen, and water in the bathroom.

It took quite an effort to locate a submersible pump. One was found several provinces away.

Installed and wired.

Lots of water.

Two tanks were purchased and delivered.

One for the main house …

… and one for the smaller house.

Now:  a working shower.

and water in the kitchen.

Also a faucet located near the new semi-automatic washing machine.

Again, this would not be possible without the support of my small group of friends, most of whom have been to Cuba and know the hardships people are forced to endure.

The family thanks you and I thank you.

 

 

Café ?

I heard someone calling “café ? café ?” I looked up and saw this older woman waving at me from her balcony.  She pointed to a doorway at street level and waved me up.

She wanted to talk.

She showed me her ration book and explained how it worked. I already knew about this system of subsidizing certain basic foods such as rice, beans, cooking oil, sugar, and coffee; but I listened anyway.

She wrote her address for so that I wouldn’t forget to visit again sometime.

After drinking coffee and showing me her apartment, we went out on the balcony.

That’s the way things happen in Cuba.

Tobacco Farming – Orlando

We met Orlando quite by chance early one morning while we were photographing. After introductions he invited us back to his farm to photograph.

Now, Orlando is a businessman as well as a farmer. He caters to tourists, providing horseback rides, guide service, and tours of his farm. We all knew this, but he was such a nice guy and the photo-ops were great. Besides, it was only 8:00 am and the light was good. What photographer would want to go on a tour at noontime?

We walked back to his house and went inside.

We were offered coffee.

Orlando lit a small wood fire

Then got to work grinding some beans.

His mother, Marta, took over in the kitchen.

She put on quite a show smoking a cigar and boiling the water…..

…..and making the coffee.

The coffee was good!

Next, we had the cigar rolling demonstration.

One for me.

Of course we bought some cigars and even some guayabita rum.

 

Yo Voto Si

Sunday, February 24th, the people of Cuba ratified the new constitution.

It was  a slam dunk.

“Are you voting yes? I would ask my friends.

“Of course” was the standard answer that accompanied the astonished look that I received.

The whole campaign was preceded by months of propaganda. Signs, billboards, and community organizers all urged people to participate in discussions and share their concerns ….. before voting “yes”.

Most of those who did not favor the new constitution simply did not vote. There were scant few who voted “no”.  Why take the chance of being singled out for retribution?

Voting places were set up according to one’s municipality.

School children were in their uniforms and helped.

As I understood it, there was not a secret ballot and anyone could check the sheets to see how their neighbor voted.